It’s dangerous looking at adventure travel blogs like ‘Mad or Nomad’ because, before you know it, you’re hooked.
So, we were all set to take our Multistrada V4 Rally, aka Monty, to South America. Our shipping company had other ideas (including almost sending it to the wrong San Antonio in Texas) and it all looked like a lost cause.
Eventually it came right, and in late November 2025 we arrived in Santiago, Chile, hot on the wheels of Monty. After a morning’s tense paperwork and, with much help from a Spanish-speaking fixer, Monty was free and we rode into Santiago traffic and straight to the local Ducati dealer for a pre-adventure check-up. Super friendly, all for free and we got to look at our Prez’s photo in the Year Book
DOCNZ Prez - Ange Joe turning up in all corners of the world
We left Santiago and headed North up the Pan American Highway, via beautiful Pacific coastlines and then into the Atacama Desert, climbing 2500m to San Pedro de Atacama a week later.
It was hot but the roads had been OK to good and mostly paved - something that was all about to change in Argentina. After some sightseeing of amazing salt lakes, flamingos and weird rock formations (photo3 - Atacama) we headed East over the Andes and crossed the border into Argentina at a breathless height of 4200m. Monty was fine at that altitude (in fact, in better shape than us for most of this trip!).
The Hand of the Desert
Atacama
We then rode South through Argentina, heading for some family re-connection (Richard’s grandfather died climbing Mount Aconcagua and is buried in the climber’s cemetery – photo 4) and onto the Malbec wine region of Mendoza and some serious slurping. Here was our second and last opportunity to visit a Ducati dealer before major miles and, again, they were so friendly and would accept no money after giving Monty a thorough clean, chain adjustment and diagnostic check (photo 5)
Climbers' Cemetery Aconcagua
Ducati Mendoza
We rode further south through the deserted Pampas on deteriorating roads and into Patagonia, with just 4,000kms to go on the main ‘road’ south, Ruta 40, to Ushuaia. Initially having to weave between the ever-increasing potholes, but soon onto long stretches of gravel, mixed with a bit of rock and sand, washboard and frequent washouts. The worst of these was the infamous ‘Los 73 Malditos’ (the Damned 73) – a challenging stretch of deep gravel in the middle of nowhere. Boy, did we have to concentrate!
Just 4000 to Ushuaia
Ruta 40
Occasionally, and with no warning, guanacos (cute but skitterish alpaca-like creatures) would leap in front of us. If that wasn’t enough to keep you on your toes, there was the wind! We’d heard about the Patagonian winds, but nothing prepared us for the ferocity of the gusts, pushing a fully laden two-up Multi around like a piece of paper. You couldn’t stop for fear of being pushed over. This was scary when we had a puncture and had to find shelter for a repair – we just made it to a barn (with a total flat) and out of nowhere a couple of young Columbians on a 125cc bike appeared, ready to help. They were rewarded with a DOCNZ sticker.
Guanaco
Helpful Columbians
Petrol supplies (and getting cash) could be an issue, and we met long queues at gas stations. The Rally has a 30 litre tank which was great on some of these longer, wilder sections. We guess that poor roads, tricky winds and a bit of ‘range anxiety’ are what make an adventure and, as we all know, there’s nothing quite like reliving a big ride at the end of the day. Particularly when it’s with a craft beer or two and a plate of tasty empanadas!
We soon got the hang of border crossings and exporting/importing Monty. We had to cross back into Chile where we could finally buy fresh tyres in Punta Arenas (there was only one set available and double the price of NZ, but a huge relief!). After visiting glaciers – Perito Moreno) and the impressive Torres Del Paine national park we dropped back again into Argentina to take the ferry to Tierra Del Fuego and finally down to the world’s southernmost city, Ushuaia.
New tyres
Perito Moreno Glacier
Torres del Paine
Ushuaia
Surrounded by snow-capped mountains, Ushuaia sits on the Beagle Channel and was the Southernmost destination for all the adventure riders we’d met. We met some inspiring bikers, mostly from South American (Brazilian, Columbian, Peruvian), America and just a few Europeans.
The locals in both Chile and Argentina were incredibly friendly and so helpful – we soon got used to hugs from total strangers. Not once did we feel threatened (apart from that wind!).
For accommodation, we tended to book the night before a ride as we soon learnt that a tightly organised schedule doesn’t always fit in with the weather. We even found a Ducati-themed room in The Motorcycle Hostel at the End of the World!
After leaving Ushuaia and heading North, we had to sit out some ferocious gusts (100kms +) for three days. Then North again, to cross the Andes back into Chile and into the land of volcanos and the Chilean lake district.
From there it was a pretty cruisy week back to Santiago via beautiful beachside villages and the charming Santa Cruz wine district (more slurping!).
Ducati room
Pucon
After ten weeks and 14,000 kms we wanted to keep going...but work (why?) and other commitments meant leaving Monty at San Antonio port and flights home for us.
Monty never missed a beat (just losing a few spokes after some nasty washboard) and the Ducati dealers in Santiago and Mendoza were fab! Although there’s a lot more to South America than just Chile and Argentina, these countries are ‘doable’, infinitely interesting and oh, so friendly. Highly recommended. Buen viaje!
Trusty Monty
Dinosaur at Bardas Biancas
Puncture repair
Representing DOCNZ!
Worlds best pillion
Our South American travel tips:
• Learn a bit of Spanish!
• Take US$ and a Wise card
• Never ride past a fuel station thinking there will be another soon...
• Take a compressor
• Download a good weather app (such as windy.com)
Our route
✍🏽&📸 by Angela & Richard Espley.
